"The reliable carrot is the backbone of any food storage plan. These mild, tasty Vitamin A-rich roots are easy to grow and they'll last until May or beyond when kept cold and moist -- 32 to 40 degrees F and 90 to 95 percent humidity. Carrots with high fiber content keep best. Those grown in heavy soils sometimes become quite fibrous in struggling to extend themselves into the close-packed ground. Such carrots won't win any flavor awards but they may still be solid next June. We've stored carrots from our early spring planting, but find that the later planting in June retains better flavor in storage.
Dig carrots before the ground freezes hard. Brush off any dry dirt that clings to them and break off the tops. Some gardeners leave a half-inch stub of leaf stem, but we usually break the stems off right where they join the root top.
Our favorite carrot storage method is simple: Spread an inch-thick layer of damp sawdust in a carton, box, or can. Arrange the carrots side by side on this bedding. They can touch, but should be kept in a single layer, not piled on each other. Put a one-inch layer of damp sawdust over the first course of carrots. Press another tier of lined-up carrots into that and continue to alternate carrots and saw dust until the container is full, ending with a covering of damp sawdust. If your storage area is drier than you would like it to be, cover the carton with damp newspaper. If you have no sawdust, you can use damp sand, bagged peat moss, wild moss, or leaves.
Carrots also keep well right in the garden row. Spread a one-foot to two-foot-thick layer of mulch over the row before the ground freezes hard and you'll be able to dig up fresh carrots for another three weeks or so, and in January thaws if snow doesn't cover the ground. Mice sometimes tunnel under mulch and eat the carrots. When this has happened in our garden, we've found a row of neat carrot-shaped holes at spring digging time. The solution is to put down a layer of hardware cloth or screening over the row before mulching."