I have eczema, on my inner elbow bends on both my arms (red very sore patches, left much worse than right), i also have a similar symptom on my right hand which has been diagnosed by a western doctors as dermatitis, i am vegan, eat a 90% raw diet as part of my everyday life, everything is organic to the max, i consume no processed foods, meat, wheat, dairy or sugars that are not naturally occuring, i am athletically very fit, train weights and cardio daily, fast 1 day per week for 24hours, do not take any pharmaceutical or recreational drugs or smoke drugs, have recently done a bowel clean ...
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I have eczema, on my inner elbow bends on both my arms (red very sore patches, left much worse than right), i also have a similar symptom on my right hand which has been diagnosed by a western doctors as dermatitis, i am vegan, eat a 90% raw diet as part of my everyday life, everything is organic to the max, i consume no processed foods, meat, wheat, dairy or sugars that are not naturally occuring, i am athletically very fit, train weights and cardio daily, fast 1 day per week for 24hours, do not take any pharmaceutical or recreational drugs or smoke drugs, have recently done a bowel clean ...
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The food is the most important thing in overcoming the eczema. If you are eating meat and dairy products then it is highly likelt that the eczema will come back sooner or later. A Organic and vegan diet consisting of alot of live fruit and veg will help the body regulate back its natural cycles. If you have any other problems along side then over the space of a few months they will be sure to dissappear. This is the only way to naturally erradicate skin and various other problems ”sustainably” in the long term and avoiding the use of pharmaceutical medication. The skin being th ...
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Ok I have tested at the CS jack, there was no continuity, however when plugged the cable in and tested the continuity it still has no continuity, surely when the jack cable is plugged in it should have continuity through the ends of the cable in order for it to work??????????? I changed those top two schottky’s, i also swapped the 10uf 50v cap on the left for a 35v and changed the middle cap for a new 10uf 50v, i have re-tested and now i am getting 8.7 v at each schottky, same all the way down, any ideas what to do next, theres definitely no shorts across solders i really checked that, ...
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This is really weird, everytime i test the circuit i get a different test reading on the volt meter,i just put a link between the 3rd rectifier down and the + bus bar and then tested all the readings on them and it seemed to be correct as i went to through them the voltages went up to 34v at the top 1, i took it off and then tried it again to double and i just wasnt the same, i tried again quite a few times but still i didnt get that test result again, is there a link missing from your diagram, or do you thunk i have a faulty component somewhere, there is nothing loose i have checked every ...
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i have not failed until i stop trying, however its not enough only for mr to believe this i have to get the result from this, please help, is there anyone else you can ask to check over your drawing, like you said sometimes you need someone else to check it over to spot if something is not right, I looked at the page you sent that is only for the step up circuit and to me it doesnt look anything like the 1 you have on your component drawing, but then again i am not a specialist, also that has a different chip in it a max1044 and yours is different but i know theres a logical reason that, i ...
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Hey Gill Ive checked everything again and again, changed that cap round like you said, checked evrything else over and over, still getting strange readings on those top 2 rectifiers sometimes when i test the rest of them they start off at a certain voltage and when i put the probes on it starts to drop and continues to drp untill i take the probes off, even tried changing the chips for new ones, i only have my tester on the volt test mode, my caps on the top left are 10uf 50v and then the rest are 10uf 35v, because like i said i couldnt get any of the 10uf 25v, could this be the problem ...
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Q: from pin 8 on 7660 go up to second rectifier - it should read around 17V -go up to fourth rectifier - it should read around 25V and -go up to last rectifier it should read around 33V A: I have made the changes i said before with the 0.1 cap etc, now i have 17.6v at the second rectifier , and 26v at the fourth rectifier and then i have a problem on the top two i have problems as the second 1 down starts at 4v when i put the tester on and then it immediately comes down when i put the probes on, the top 1 changes a little bit too but it reads around 1v. These are all tested as you said ... [Image Embedded Here]
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my 0.1 uf cap will be an electrolytic cap, as thats all i can find, is this ok and if so then whivh way should the polarity be facing. thanks G   [End]
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Ok my friend, my resistors were in parallel as i just connected them as it is on the drawing, so i will change that so as if they were connected like 1 resistor together. i will also change the 1uf cap to a 0.1uf cap, this will be done within a few hours. i have tested at the schottkeys and results are as follows, from top to bottom (the line is facing the right hand side) 1)5.23v 2)3.37v 3)0v 4)3.43v 5)5.36v 6)3.44v silver jack plug) 1.2v silver lamp) 0v zapper jack plug) 0v i find these readings quite peculiar, i assume that number three is not working correct ...
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I am trying to understand your work, but i have noticed that the 1 you built (on the picture) does not have the 22uF 50v capacitor, this capacitor is shown on all the drawings you have posted, i am a bit confused because i have wired everything exactly as per drawing including the zener diodes which i have even tried changing in case i got it wrong, im going to try and take some photo’s of my work to show u, i definately have no shorts as its very clear, bt its not really a work of art like yours lol, i really need to get this up and running because people around me are not well and also f ...
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Hi again and sorry to bother u, I have connected the circuit exactly as per your drawing that you have provided but somehow its still not working, could it be that its not working because i have used a 1uF CAPACITOR instead of a 0.1uF , i did not know which 1 you meant so i have put in a 1uF, the 1 in the bottom left hand corner around the resistors, another thing i have done different is that i did not have a 2.4 Mohm resistor so i have used 2 of which being a 2.2 meg and a 100k, is that ok,is there a sequence of tests i can do to test out the problem. My lady is coming over from switz ...
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Great advice thank u i will use that, I still dont quite get it with the diodes at the bottom , ive finished everything else and just need to change those zeners and then its done, caould u please re-send the drawing with the diode arrangement corrected on it, your drawings are great and really easy to read, that way us not so electronically biased individuals cant go too far wrong lol. Thanks again G   [End]
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can i blow a capacitor by holding the soldering iron on too long when i am soldering connections, because sometimes i hear a sharp crackling, Also wondered if resistors have polarity. Kindest regards G   [End]
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is that component diagram that you put on this last message the 1 with the correct diode arrangement. basically u are just saying to turn the diode around. Thanks G   [End]
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i can only find 2.3 meg ohm o.6 watt 5% resistor is this ok. i also wonder if the resistor in the top left is R150 or is it ment to be 150k, same with the R820?   [End]
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I wondered if you have a really easy to make component diagram and materials list, just like the 1 you gave me but also with the calloidal silver maker aswell, this way i know it will be bigger but then its all in 1. Thanks G   [End]
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right ok i think i got my head around all of that lol, thank u for sll this, u are a real specialist, i am having difficulty getting each specific capacitor to the ones i see on your materials list you wrote for someone else. Not that I want to but more because i may have to but i wondered if its possible to compensate the uF and voltages and change them slightly to suit whats available, is that possible, if so then what is able to go up and down etc, cant seem to get any 10uF 35v but can get both 25v and 50v so can i use one of them instead or is it not that simple? Thanks G   [End]
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i assume they are electrolytic capacitors and normal diodes not zeners? G   [End]
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the polarity of only 1 of the capacitors is stated on the drawing, and also the diodes too. I would appreciate if u could please get back soon as i will be getting the equipment in 1 hour. Thanks G   [End]
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1 more thing is that you havnt said what percentage resistors you are using, i would like to get the components in 1 and a half hours and it would be great if i had that information, thanks again, G   [End]
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1 more thing i wanted to ask is about the switch, i have a double pole double throw switch, however i am using this a a double pole single throw, is that ok, i hope this is not also a problem, sorry i ask so many questions and take up so much time, i really appreciate your help, bless u. G   [End]
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on yours it does not say if the led is bicolor or just single colour? also your connections on your taper pot, u have 3, how comes 1 of them just goes randomly into the side of it, i know on the drawing it shows it at the common side of it but on mine in reality there is no connection, also i notice that you have no test switch or on off switch so do u just use the taper on its ok, also the jack lead has 3 connections too, if u can answer these questions too then i believe i could try yours. does the out put between 27-33 volts at the correct frequency and do exactly the same as the bec ...
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ok i will change cap in a few hours when the shops open, the test switch is definately momentary on because the LEDs only stay lit when i press the button and then they go off when i let go. Maybe its the relay because when i turn down the pot it does not make a click, if i hold the test switch the leds dont light when the taper pot is turned all the way to the right, but it does work when its turned all the way to the left, this is with the connections facing down, i think that is also working backwards, ive checked it 8 times for shorts, and also checked the wiring in the same process ...
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also that capacitor is 35 volts 220uf and it should actually be a 20 volt 200uf my resistor colours are as follows: R4: brown black red - 1k R3: red red red - 2.2k R2: brown black green - 1M R1: brown black yellow - 100k Have i calculated the colours of the resistors correct or are any of them wrong. Everything else has been checked and appears correct. I seem to have found a mistake on the capacitor so i will change as soon as i can get to the shop in the morning. What do u think , do u think that could be causing the whole problem, i am getting excited again as it might work if ...
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i just realised that the big capacitor , the 1 that is supposed to be 200 uf, well the 1 i have put in is actually 220 uf, thats 20uf difference, could this be the problem do you think? G   [End]
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Ok great advice, i have checked the voltage at the jack leads, its zero, at the taper pot the voltage is 27 volts, also the voltage at the test switch is 25 volts, i have checked the polarity on the diodes and capacitors and they appeaer to be ok by the eye, i am working to a different schematic to the 1 that you showed me, mine is much older version. http://www.teslatech.com/ This page above is the schematic i have using and as far as i know its supposed to work as its the original 1. what would you advise as the next step, i really appreciate this, sorry i did not get back sooner ...
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please can you help, i hsve been working on this for 4 days, everything is fine except for the LED’s stay on constantly instead of flahing alternately, is it one of the components is faulty, i have checked the whole thing through many times. Thanks G   [End]
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please help me, i have been making my own becks electrifier, its took me ages, 3 days, but i cant seem to get it right, i built in from start to finish on a blank board, the bulb lights when i turn it on but then when i press the test button the LED’s are supposed to flash alternatively but they only both stay lit on ,no flashing, can anybody help me as i am really trying my hardest and i really need this to work ASAP. its the 1 with 3 batteries by the way. Gozoo   [End]
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Can anyone help me, i have been making my own becks electrifier and calloidal silver maker, its took me ages, 3 days, but i cant seem to get it right, i built in from start to finish on a blank board, the bulb lights when i turn it on but then when i press the test button the LED’s are supposed to flash alternatively but they only both stay lit on ,no flashing, can anybody help me as i am really trying my hardest and i really need this to work ASAP. its the 1 with 3 batteries by the way. thanks Gozoo   [End]
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