Just made a few batches with my newly acquired Silvergen (thank you Utopia for pushing me towards it). I was wondering what others were getting, ppm wise, with their various dial settings.
My experience:
Dial at 12 o'clock: 7.2 ppm (clear)
Dial at 1 o'clock: 8.8 ppm (clear)
Dial at 3 o'clock: 16.5 ppm (clear)
Tested with the Hanna meter Silvergen sells.
It was super easy to set up and make batches. I really like the auto feature, quite lovely.
I am really interested in your PPM measurement at the max dial setting. I am also leaning toward buying this unit. I also love their silver bar approach as opposed to silver wires.
I will definitely make a quart batch on max dial setting and see what I come up with. Wondering if it will be clear or start to turn darker in color, or is this machine capable of making anything other than clear? I'll post up the results when I do.
I would go with this unit Grizz, I'm digging it thusfar.
Set the dial to max and it only came to 16.9 ppm (clear color). It's supposed to make up to 20 ppm from my understanding, but I don't think I'll be able to get there. :-/
I'm disappointed about that. Can you call SilverGen to get it fixed?
That is exactly why I don't like "Automatic" generators. They should all give us a manual override mode to boost the PPM as needed.
Is there any way to override the automatic shutoff?
This is why I like the Silver Edge:
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Silver Edge - quart Jar, wide mouth
Shutoff via Manual Timer - Length of time varies ppm or batch size for versatility
3 hours per quart to make 10 ppm CS
6 hours per quart to make 20 ppm CS
30 hours to make 2.5 gallons 10 ppm CS
Video making large batches
Making Monster Sized batches
Silver Wires 12 Gauge
Automatic polarity reversal runs during each batch
Built in air pump stirs water
Prices - https://server.publishers-mgmt.com/se/signupT.php?seppref=
Video Review - Link
Site - Link
I am definetly going to call and see what they say. Hopefully they aren't anything like Utopia and at least answer or respond to me.
A manual override would be great, but I don't really see myself needing anything over 20 ppm., but it would be nice to at least reach that point.
I finally had a need to test out the product. For the past 1-2 days I had a pain inside my ear that was radiating into my jaw. I put a few drops of the 7.2 ppm stuff into my ear canal for a few minutes before bed, and when I woke up it was gone, and still is. So for external uses, it's golden for sure! :-D
Here is a great article about why constant voltage generators are no good (such as 3 - 9 volt batteries), also mentions your SG6 generator (that is constant current). http://www.silvergen.com/technica.htm
IMO, Steve Barwick at the Silver Edge has done an amazing job at promoting Colloidal Silver at his website by providing quality research and testimonials. Great work, Steve.
My PWT meter just arrived today, and I calibrated it with the correct testing solution then tested my 20+ppm Colloidal Silver . It tested at 12.7
The bottom line. TDS & PWT meters do not accurately measure silver in ppm. We must use a formula to modify the measurement to reflect the true PPM reading.
When you call Silvergen, please ask them what the correction factor is to convert the PWT reading into PPM. You should have received the correction factor instructions with the meter.
" this meter will read Colloidal Silver directly in ppm by applying a correction factor....We supply instructions with the proper correction factor so you will be able to easily calculate your PPM" http://www.silvergen.com/ppm_meter.htm
I found this:
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( Final CS Meter Reading - Initial Distilled Water Reading ) X Adjustment/Conversion Factor = PPM Colloidal Silver .
I do not see anything about a conversion factor in the meter directions. Am I missing something?
In the directions that came with the generator, to says: If you want to know the exact PPM of your CS, we suggest ordering our PPM tester. It is accurate to 2% and will also check your distilled water for mineral contamination."
It sounds like there isn't a conversion needed, and that you test PPM directly with the meter they sell.
See Newports and Johny Apple Bombs post here: http://www.curezone.org/forums/am.asp?i=1036205
Now I am all confused. lol
" this PWT meter will read Colloidal Silver directly in ppm by applying a correction factor....We supply instructions with the proper correction factor so you will be able to easily calculate your PPM" http://www.silvergen.com/ppm_meter.htm
Please let me know what they say when you call them.
They did not supply you with the correction factor. That factor is available only from Silvergen, not from Hanna Instruments.
Got to reading the directions again, and it says spreading out the silver bars further apart in the water will increase ppm. I shall give that a try too.
How long does it take to make each batch of CS? More ppm takes a longer time.
More ppm requires less current in MA.
Spreading apart the silver wires results in less current and more ppm which also requires more time.
I am curious - what is the current in milliamps being sent to the silver wires? You can put a milliammeter in series with one of the silver wires to monitor the current. Esstee recommends 1 milliamp of current to be optimal for making CS.
You were saying in earlier posts that polarity reversal was unnecessary! Polarity reversal does not stop plating of the electrode, it does reduce it because there are two electrodes.
What you seem to have missed is that the maker of your generator recommends using an electrolyte to prevent the blackening of the electrode. He recommends Sodium Carbonate. Not Sodium Chloride which I think you might of mixed up with all the negative press that sodium chloride ie salt and Colloidal Silver has. These are very different things and have different effects. An electrolyte both speeds up production by increasing conductivity of the water and stops/significantly reduces the plating of the electrode.
If you read up on it on your manufacturers forum he explains the chemistry and how it works.
With my unit, the green light comes on right away, no matter what brand of water I’m using. This occurs with a readings (hannah meter) from .3 to 1.0. Sometimes with the same water, the red ligjt will immediately come on. Not once in the years that I’ve owned it has the light next to the dial not come on immediately after flipping the toggle switch on. I can’t figure it out. Gah